6 Months On

For the past few weeks I've been starting to try push myself a bit and regain a bit more of old form so I've been putting in plenty sessions at the Ice Factor with the lads on the rock, ice and DT. I've also started Crossfit in Fort William which is great. I've also teamed up with Rebecca Dent to sort my diet out too. 

Training at Ice Factor-Pic-Gabi Tomescu

We've had some great weather here the past few days and I eventually felt my ankle had recovered enough to walk further up the Glen to check a project I'd spotted some time ago. I headed up with James and Rich yesterday to check it and for the lads to check something too. The line didn't look any easier than I remember so I decided to give it a try on top rope and start the major cleaning operation. I managed almost all the moves but a lead is a long way off, it's definitely high end E7 with the only gear near the bottom and near the top, utterly terrifying, psyched. Also spotted a few other potential lines, happy days!

James and Rich with Steall Falls in the background

Today James, Mia and myself headed halfway up Ben Nevis to help with a litter pick that was part of a 3 Peaks clean up project organised by our mate Rich Pyne.

Mia with one of the less disgusting things we cleared up

We met more than our share of idiots and ignorant folks but one crew in particular who seemed like they had already been drinking and were causalities waiting to happen, both James and I had words with them and a few others. However on the way down we found what we think was some of their bevy stash chilling in the burn, karma strikes again.  

James 'clearing up' the cans, who needs Highland Spring

We cleared a lot just between the 3 of us and the guys who cleared from the summit down will no doubt have lifted plenty too, good effort to those who got involved giving up their own time to clean up the hill and to Rich for organising it!

Climbers Against Cancer DT comp

We're busy here at the Ice Factor arranging a DT competition in aid of Climbers Against Cancer. We've arranged a full weekend event with the comp on Saturday 2nd November followed by a talk by Simon Yearsley and then a party. On the Sunday we've got Dave MacLeod running coaching sessions on bouldering and DT and doing a short talk. Please get involved and help us raise plenty of cash for CAC.

Here's details for booking, digs etc- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=563638

Keep an eye on progress here too- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ice-Factor/91813782376

Highland Emergency

Yesterday I headed out for a go on real rock for the first time since before my op. Myself, Dave, Andy and Davie headed up to West End crag in Glen Nevis to get on Alls Fair, an E2 I'd done before. I was keen to get on it again as it was bold but not to techy, Dave was psyched for his first E2 lead and Andy had the psyche too. We faffed on top rope, Dave and Andy were really keen so I decided to leave it till after they'd done it before I went on it again.

Andy got on lead as I filmed from above and sent the route. It was then Daves go on the sharp end but a couple metres up he had a mishap before the first gear placement, fell and decked out. I knew by the sound his body made then the ensuing screams it was bad, bear in mind Dave is tough, he fell earlier this year on the Ben and continued for hours with cracked ribs and a few other bumps. He broke his back in a car smash 2 years ago so we didn't move him, Andy went and called MRT as Davie and I did what we could for him, stuck a jumper under his head and a constant stream of banter/abuse. The team arrived and then Rescue 177 turned up and he was airlifted away with another broken back. He's just text me though and thankfully it's not as bad as last time so here's wishing him a speedy recovery!

Rescue 177 with Dave in the stretcher. Photo courtesy of Lochaber MRT

Today I knew I had to climb something so I headed up the Glen again with Graham. We headed to Scimitar and just did some easy stuff to get cruising again.

Myself on Diagonal, brilliant VS

Back North

On Saturday morning I left Ayrshire after 4 months of recovery and headed back North to Kinlochleven. My ankle still hurts like hell and is still cracking loudly so I'm just going to have to take everyday as it comes now. I went straight to training when I arrived on Saturday in the ice wall to just get the feel for things again.

Training on the ice-Pic- Nadir Khan

The next day was spent with some quick catch ups then onto the rock wall. Squeezing my foot into rock shoes was painful and then came the actual climbing which was akin to when I walk too far, pain, nausea and sweating etc. The first two days here have been a real eye opener to how much work I have to do, needing to get stronger, fitter, needing to learn to put weight through and trust my foot and pretty much having to re-learn how to climb with another physical malfunction on my left hand side, keeps it interesting though! There are a few interesting projects for me to be working away on too while I'm still recovering, one in particular which I'm very psyched about, watch this space..........

If the producers of Top Gear are reading this the car pictured is a 1.1 Saxo with limited edition gaffa taped wing mirrors, classic! Davie and me talk crap on way home from Glencoe yesterday. Pic- Nadir Khan

Road to Recovery

Went to see the surgeon yesterday after nearly 4 months on crutches and thankfully the fusion has worked with limited complications. Time to get back to some proper training and work.

X-Ray showing the metalwork

It's been a humbling time with not being able to do everything for myself but I've had great support from family and a few good mates so thanks to them. Time to move on though and hopefully start nailing some projects in Autumn when the midges eventually go!

Half Way

I'm at just over half way through my time in the cast, only another 5 weeks (hopefully) to go before I can start physio and weight bearing stuff, then the hard work starts. I've been hitting the local gym recently and trying to keep my upper body in shape but feel I'm really missing cardio training even with bouts on the handbike. Still it feels good to be doing something rather than watching 80s action films. 

Last week was the official opening of the new ice wall at Snow Factor and I went along to have a look. I took my gear up in case I was tempted and the minute I saw the wall I knew I was going on it. I waited till the media circus had died down and jumped on some corner routes using one boot & crampon on my good foot and bridging using my knee on the injured side. I went back again this week and teamed up with Gerry & Joe to do some more routes, using the same technique I was surprised to find I could climb vertical face ice and onto the DT boards above, felt really good to be climbing again.

On the new wall at Xscape

I've taken a fair run at getting started with some writing projects and finishing others but have learnt some new stuff over the past few weeks too. I'm not known as being particularly patient or easy going when I'm trapped inside away from the mountains but something like this really teaches you to be patient because if you aren't it becomes a lot more difficult to deal with, even if it is for only a comparatively small amount of time compared to some. 

Surgery Done

So thats the major surgery on my ankle finally done. Got released from hospital and was back in within a few hours due to excessive bleeding but all settled now.

I'm no Doctor but pretty sure this wasn't the norm

Got all the staples removed yesterday so once the wounds seal a bit more at least I'll be able to train my upper body as up till now any straining has caused plenty pain especially where they took a bone graft from my shin. I managed to get a bit of up/down motion in my ankle while the cast was off so that's quite promising.