The first time I top roped it today felt a bit iffy so I was having slight reservations but got on a second time and it felt as good as these things do. I knew on the route there were a few moves that I couldn't afford to make any mistakes, I suppose that's why it appealed to me. I decided the best course of action was to just go for it. I listened to 3 tunes on my ipod, got into my headspace, tied in and set off.
I climbed up to where the E5 goes left, took a few seconds and committed to getting to the only gear placement as I knew I could bottle it there in relative safety. I placed the wire and the semi good cam, no need to think too much, this is all I want in life. Climbing up past the first crux felt great, better than on top rope, I've really missed that feeling of utter focus and commitment. The tiny holds are just enough for me to balance my way up, into fingertip hand holds and toe smears but it feels easy in comparison with what's ahead.
I reach the real 'on/off' crux and move quickly so as not to let the fear build, right toe on a tiny smear, part of left hand pushing down on a sloper I become totally enveloped by the climb. I reach slowly and carefully high with my right hand and get the small but positive hold.Not far to go, relax, for god sake hope my left hand doesn't sweat in the growing heat.
Reaching the last section I chillout and chalk up, pull up, switch feet on another smear using small hand holds, get the 2 finger nails on and go for the final hold, get it and feel totally alive.
The Rebellion-E6 6b, Glenfinnan. Climb as for Frustration, at first horizontal break head direct up the slab, gear in right crack, no further use of crack or anything to its right.