Tuesday, 28 December 2010

Tolerance , Round 3 pics

Here are some pics from the 3rd attempt at Tolerance . All pics by Suzy Devey...............................

Dot and I chatting and getting a brew between snow showers

Trying to melt ice with my palm while trying to regain a smidgen of feeling in my left hand, a battle I rapidly lost!!

Trying again to get a bit of sensitivity in my hand before launching into trying the hard moves!!

That's solid ice on the sole of my rock shoes, not ideal....................

Slush Climbing

In the past few days I've been out a couple of times to get into the swing of ice climbing again, just in time for the thaw!!! My foot is causing increasing pain but I cant stop getting out and climbing ,time to admit to myself I'm hopelessly addicted to climbing perhaps?
I went up to the CIC cascades with Rich on Thursday and even though it was thawing rapidly we had a good day on the ice. Only one other party on the hill which was the quietest I've ever seen the Ben on a good winters day.

Rich on the walk in to the ice on Thursday

On Xmas I was surprised when my mate Andy turned up in the Fort to run me back to Ayrshire, my plans for Xmas day had been to go soloing then eat a pizza but between everyone I know laughing at me for being on my own on Xmas Day and Suzy and Rich devouring my pizza I decided to visit the Shire. The local waterfall had frozen for the first time in 15 years but unfortunately by the time we sobered up enough to go near it it was like climbing a slush puppy. I climbed up a few feet but the whole thing was pouring with water, big chunks collapsing and my axes were ripping through so it was home, changed and out for a good old Dalry pint which inevitably turned into a 10 hour drinking session.............

On the Lynn Falls in the Shire

Wednesday, 8 December 2010

Slab Video

Heres a link to UKC with a short video of Dave and me at the slab routes the other week..............

Wednesday, 1 December 2010

Rock & Ice

On Saturday evening Dot, Suzy and myself headed for Belfast once again. A forecast for chilly but clear conditions was enough to get me psyched for yet another attempt at Tolerance. after a chilled evening at Rickys place we got up early in the morning, gearing up at the car we could see the Tors basking in the morning sun but we were also very aware of a front building to the North East. Ricky and Danny went to check out some boulders while we walked into the crag and set up, Ricky made a cool video of their day here http://www.vimeo.com/17337493

With a distinct feeling of Deja Vu Binnian began to disappear into the cloud the closer we got to it. I had a look at the route, it wasn't ideal but set up the rope anyway, as soon as I did that the blizzard hit. I decided to give it a try anyway but kept skidding on the ice or losing feeling trying to grip on snow/ice covered ledges. I abbed off and brushed away the snow and tried again but by this time it was winter conditions and I was climbing in rolled up trousers and sleeves. I completely lost feeling in fingers and toes and had to give in, gutted. on the walk out it became apparent that it wasn't ideal rock climbing conditions as there were fully formed icefalls almost 1000ft below where I was trying to climb. It turned to full on conditions on the way out and I began to accept that rock climbing in the mountains was finished for the season................Maybe