Ardnamurchan

On Friday night I got a text from  fellow Dalry Ex-Pat Steve Kennedy asking if I fancied a trip to Ardnamurchan with him and my old Nevisport boss ,the legendary Andy to see about doing a new route. I was catching up with some mates on the Saturday but resisted the temptation to hit Ossians, Fort Williams premier night club, and went home early and got ready for the following day.

We drove out in increasingly fine weather and sauntered into the crag. There's a real atmosphere out there it's a truly beautiful and remote spot. Steve showed me the line and I was immediately psyched, it was a direct line up an arête and a true finish to an existing line that steps right at the start of the difficulties. There was a bit of a protection issue in that I could only get some at half height but I top roped the route first to check the scary looking crux.

Entering the crux sequence, Pic -Steve Kennedy

As I've noticed on bold routes all this season I found myself totally relaxed on lead, the feeling of total focus, relaxation and peace really is priceless.

 Just about topping out on the route, Pic-Steve Kennedy

We graded the route E4 5c but haven't decided on a name yet. It was a great new line and well worth staying sober for.

Andy and Steve 

It was a great day all in yesterday, new bold route, beautiful weather, stunning location and good banter with mates, pretty perfect really..........

Past week in Pics

About to go canyoning with these two wise looking chaps

I'm the splash after a 40ft jump

Myself, Johann and Martyn

On Ben Rinnis doing ML Training

Summer ML training gear in Scotland, gale force winds

First training sesh on the axes with Connor and Dave

Feeling the early season burn

Torch Bearer on the Ben

Yesterday was a very special day indeed. Last week I received an email telling me I'd been nominated to be part of the Paralympic Torch team on Ben Nevis, at first I thought it was just a joke however at 5.15am I found myself at the foot of Ben Nevis waiting on all the other members of the team , Scouts,guides,Police security, members of the organising committee and the media. We took our time on the walk up which gave me a good chance to hear some great stories from the security guys about the last torch relay, some really inspirational people out there.

Just having lit the flame 

The Scouts did well to light the fire by natural means using a flint and tinder in damp and windy conditions which I then got to light the torch on. 

 Standing on the very summit with the Scouts 

It was a real genuine honour to represent Scottish Mountaineering for the Paralympics, not something I'll ever forget. I dont know who nominated me but if they read this then big thanks to you.........

One final bit of posing on the summit

Steall Path

Having spent so much time in the Steall area recently and simply just because I love the place I felt I should stick a link to the JMT appeal on here as well as FB, fundraising is going well and they are nearing their target http://www.jmt.org/appeal.asp

E7 Attempt Teaser

Heres a link from James to a short trailer for a film project we're working on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4YndzU5dh0

E7 Fail & Running Success

With pressure growing from within my own head I've been suffering sleepless nights thinking about going for the lead on the E7 project and with James , Dave and Johann we headed up the other night to check it out! When we arrived the crag was starting to seep, I went to check it out a bit more and as I did so tripped over my pack, by the time I noticed it it was merrily starting to roll its way back down the epic 400m approach and we could do nothing but laugh and hope it stopped which it did after 100m thankfully. The next night we slogged back up and got on the route, it was still warm though and a part of me began to have doubts but my keenness to experience another bold lead took over and I decided to go for it. It went well up to the crux and I guess I over thought as when I started into the crux the tiny voice of doubt suddenly turned into a screaming voice so I down climbed to the relative safety of the crescent , got a rope to me and lowered off!

                            On my lead attempt of Pallor E7 6b

As I lowered off  I contemplated getting straight back on and had a bit of a time deciding but my more sensible side prevailed and with it being such a serious route I thought it best to come back another time after a bit more climbing. I was disappointed with myself for wimping out but at the same time I was surprised at the fact I could walk away much easier than I would have done before having my accident!

Trying to put a smile on while dealing with disappointment in myself

I like that climbing forces you to deal with all these negative emotions, I feel like it cleanses all that darkness from me which is another reason to love this game.

Today Dave and I decided to get in a hill day and settled on doing the Ring of Steall as quick as we could, I found it quite hard keeping up at a couple of points but kept going any way and really enjoyed pushing myself again and it's really got me psyched for more big hill days as my ankle and knees weren't too bad.

                          Me on the Devils Ridge

            Dave on the last top with Ben Nevis in the background

Psyche meets Fear

I got a text from Dave the other night saying about a new slab he had found on one of his training runs.The text mentioned E7 and E8 solos and I after my recent decision to make a real effort to stop soloing I had to think about it for a whole 2 or 3 minutes before the psyche kicked in and I was keen to at least have a look.

So we headed out on Friday and set off up the brutal approach and as I arrived at the crag I saw what Dave meant about it being very reminiscent of Firestone in the Gorms. We set up a top rope and I got on the potential E7 line first,stunning climbing and I got to the last move first try then made the slab climbing error of over reaching and slipped. Dave got on next and unsurprisingly made it look easy.

Dave cleaning a hold as we discussed how to try avoid a horrendous fall into the gully below the line.

After the E7 Dave got straight on the E8 line and despatched it clean on the top rope too, for a brief moment I thought he was going to go for the lead on the E7 but with the heat and occasional spit of rain it probably wasn't prime conditions.

After he lowered down I decided to have a blast on the E8 line just to see the moves,I genuinely expected to fall off on the first moves but to my surprise I did it clean on first try.

              A foreshortened view of the E8,still a long way from the top and safety.

Showing a bit more of the route,the only gear would be in the lip at the bottom, it would stop you rolling 400m down the hill but wouldn't stop you hitting the deck.

I was really surprised at managing this but the prospect of leading/soloing such a terrifying route will definitely give me some food for thought over the next while, more visits on cooler days should help decide and hopefully the psyche will far outweigh the fear by then, though the psyche is already winning the battle............