Wednesday, 24 November 2010


Recently I've been trying a lot of new routes and attempting repeats but without much success. Most of the time it's been down to my hand and regardless of how much I try to accept I'm disabled I can't seem to quite get there with it and it makes me angry with myself. In turn though I hate myself for being weak in not accepting that I'm different. If I could beat these pathetic weaknesses then maybe the demons that push me so hard wouldn't have such a hold over me and my life, whether this would be good or bad I do not know, I doubt I ever will.

Struggling to accept that I'm beaten on a route in the Glen, these are always shit times -Pic- Suzy Devey

Today though was one of those days that make all the misery, self hate and insomnia that comes with constantly trying other routes worth it. Dave, Donald, Suzy and myself headed out Glenfinnan way. I had an E5 to go at and Dave had a new route project to go at.

This shot captures a bit of what climbing is really about for me, good company and good laughs
Pic- Suzy Devey

As Dave and I worked our respective routes I knew pretty quickly that I was ready physically for the route, I just had to (in the words of Mr T) "Get some nuts" and go for it. So I tied in and sorted my rack which didn't take long as it was just a skyhook. I started up the climb, the first few moves I was struggling to relax with my head still a bit messed up from my fall but I knew if I pushed on I'd be fine, I knew this as if I wasn't and started to tremble I'd be off the precarious slab. I moved up and placed the skyhook, Donald tied it off at the base, time to go for it. Moving up on nail edges and small quartz holds I began to remember the feeling of bold routes I crave. As I climbed on and became more committed then the more I relaxed, this bodes well for another impending trip to the Mournes.

Nearing mid way on Frustration E5 6a - Pic Suzy Devey

Next up Dave despatched a new hard route, I don't know grade or name so I'll leave out details for Dave to blog about, needless to say it was an impressive bit of climbing. He then proceeded to easily onsight the E5 I had just done, a close call near the top though as just as he caught the large hold at the end of the route a fighter jet blasted overhead by only a few hundred feet (if that) and gave everyone a bit of a jump. All in all though today was an awesome day..................


  1. Damn, topping out on a route just as a jet goes by......doesn't get any better than that!

    Jammy B*stards

  2. Good effort Kev,

    Looks like a brilliant bit of rock. You've got me psyched for some slab warrior action now. Shame they'll all covered in snow for the next 5 months!


  3. Hey Kev! I highly doubt you will remember me personally, but you may remember some of the time you spent on 'my' wall many moons ago! I was the son of Gary Luke, Scott's mate. We had was essentially Scott's training wall out in a shed next to my house next to Muthill? Well, I remember you from then and found your blog through Dave MacLeod's.

    I've read through most of your posts and what a crazy time you've had! I've recently got pretty into climbing. (Following my fathers footsteps I guess...) I felt it was a natural progression from my years of hill walking and last seasons small amount of winter mountaineering that got me totally hooked. Anyway, to cut things down I've gotten pretty consumed by the whole climbing culture in Scotland and being part of it. From dry tooling, my first lead and generally pissing about at Alien Rock when I get the time off from Blacks and uni, I've gotten obsessed.

    Anyway, to cut things down to a short summary, thanks for being around when I was just a kid! It was all you guys doing the most crazy shit in my shed that's got me totally pumped on this all. And haven read most of it, your blog has become a new source of inspiration for sure! I will definitely be reading on.

    Again, thanks and kindest regards,


  4. Gaz, It's a cool place, pretty sure you would like it mate.............

    Good to hear from you, aye I remember you running around when we were all training there. seems like ages ago, I feel old now. Good that yer right into your climbing. Hows Gary getting on??