The Works- Part Deux

Last week Joe and myself had an early start to head South of the border to pick up Conor and Kerr to head to The Works. The sluggish crawl through Glasgow traffic giving me the fear, I dont know how folk can deal with that on a daily basis without going mental. Conor and Kerr were there to film and Joe and myself to climb so we all got stuck in with our various jobs and aims, no faffing, everyone clear on what they want to achieve which was good. I got back on First Blood after dropping my axe at the last move on my last attempt last year and Joe got on Blood Donor. After climbing with Jeff Mercier last season we've did our best to follow his no fig four style so for me personally it totally changed the route as fig fouring allowed me to somewhat make up for not being able to switch or high axe. 

On the second day Joe sent Blood Donor first try and I knew the pressure was on, he'd sent First Blood last year and I hadn't heard the end of it so I couldn't have him two routes ahead of me. I got on my line after a warm up try and felt good, only dreading one move that had potential to hurt my hand/arm. Making it to the move I knew I had to cut loose and risk swinging the wrong way ,which would've been sub optimal, thankfully I went the right way and managed to sort myself out with encouraging shouts from below and finish the route. The lesson here for me being that holding onto shit that hurts is pointless, better to cut away and risk short term pain and move on through to other/better things, amazing the crap ye learn hanging upside down in a dank cave!!!!

Attempting First Blood last year

Joe,Kerr,me and Conor 

Joe feeling the psyche

On the last day Joe and I were trying other routes but never had time or much energy to complete them so another trip in November is looking likely!!

Will hopefully manage this route next visit-All pics- Type Two Films

Clarity & Direction

For over 16 years since I became epileptic I've been fighting serious depression, its something I've always felt but more so since my first seizures. No help has been available to me as I cant take anti-depressants and the therapy I was sent to years ago never worked. Anyway up until last month I've dealt with it with alcohol, I was going out drinking heavily a lot recently and it got to ridiculous levels and mixing it with lots of tramadol never helped, well not in the long run anyway. I suddenly saw what I wasn't just becoming but had secretly been for a long time and very clearly knew I had to change direction. I went cold turkey which hasn't been easy but that was 6 weeks ago and I'm happy with the progress I'm making. 

Just after quitting I was at Newtyle with a strong team and a clear head, the longest I'd been sober for a very long time and I was climbing better and stronger than I was in my twenties.

Euan,Greg,Simon,Robbie,Joe and Willis at Newtyle

Next up was a yomp up to a crag in Arrochar to start cleaning a big new route which I'm well psyched to get on.

View from above the new route over to Ben Lomond

The following week we had an awesome day up at Nevis Range on the bikes and I dropped into my first section a of black run.

Rhona near the top of the North Face path.

I've spent a few days up the Glen with Chaela doing some of the classics which has been great as ever since I moved here I've usually always been trying new routes, trying to repeat hard stuff or belaying hard stuff, nice not to be stressing. Though I have my eye on a great line up there I've never done before and will be quite a scary lead :)

Chaela walking out from Scimitar in Glen Nevis

Then it was back on the Buachaille with Rhona to go for a quick afternoon jaunt up Curved ridge. 

In the clag on the summit of the Buachaille!!

New route at last!!!

Eventually after a pretty crap Summer in the Highlands and a few unsuccessful days looking for new routes I eventually bagged one on Friday. Another early start found Foxy, Joe and myself yomping up to the Caldera slab once again.

Joe and Foxy approaching the crag

Love the view from here, Joe wastes it though!!

While Foxy checked out a place to shoot from Joe checked my route 'Arrakis' while I checked a new line to the left. Joe decided to go for it and sent the route and I went for mine shortly thereafter. Its pretty bold and quite technical slab climbing (defo my favourite), it was all going fine till I realised I had been so focused on the delicate climbing that I'd forgotten to place a vital bit of gear and suddenly realised I was looking at the upper crux well above my tiniest micro cam, I was also getting Elvis leg which wasn't helping. The last few moves are pretty committing and I had to have a word with myself before launching up. Route done, relief for me and abuse from the lads for being such a nugget. The route got called 'Senior Moment' I reckon about E5 6a but with a left hand you may be able to get gear out to the left, who knows the grade aint important I just enjoyed the experience.....

First ascent of Senior Moment-Pic-Alan Fox

Scrambling etc

Typically while feeling on good form I've injured myself by rupturing a tendon on my right hand, thankfully its not too bad and wont require any surgery etc as I'd be right up the creek with my right hand out of operation :) Regardless though I've managed to get a few scrambling routes, North Buttress with Rhona then Lagangarbh Buttress. It's frustrating being injured and not being able to climb at my best but I love just being in the mountains, Glencoe is a very special and beautiful place and I feel lucky to have it on my doorstep and in being able to still go out and enjoy it. Also going to be trying to clean and recce routes during recovery period so I can get straight into climbing when my finger gets better.

Rhona on North Buttress, Glencoe

Conor at Type Two Films has edited up this footage from Lochailort the other week about my new E4 and repeat of Skyfall. https://vimeo.com/133142059 

Back to it

On Tuesday I headed back to Lochailort with an aggressive focus on putting some stuff to bed out there. I picked up Steve , Nathan and Dave in the Fort and set off. We arrived and decided to first check out some new route potential two tiers down from the main crag, although shorter (10m) we found a few nice lines. Nathan got his first new route and I found a lovely wee slab which offered involving slab climbing.

Nathan on first ascent of Spanglers Bunnet S4b

Myself on first ascent of Bonnie Fechter E4 6b

After the two new routes we headed up to the main crag as the lads were keen to knock off some routes and I had unfinished business with Skyfall E6 6b. If it was going to happen any day then this was going to be it. I dropped a top rope down it first, two quick goes and I decided to just go for it, I repeated my earlier pre-lead routine of cleaning my shoes while listening to a bit of Slipknot then set off. This route has been a long term mental battle for me with a couple of on/off moves and only one gear placement, the crux move would be bad to fall from, the last hard move would probably mean going straight to the ground. I fought my way through to the top but its definitely the most "out there" I've felt for a while.

Getting into the lead headspace

Last of the hard moves miles above my gear

It was possibly one of the best days climbing I've ever had but marred slightly as Steve couldn't climb due to a full on sciatic nerve problem which sucked as it'd have been good if we could all have bagged something so big thanks to him for belaying. 

The Gut

With plans to get on the lead on Pallor on Thursday I had a sleepless night though on opening the curtains to heavy cloud in the morning plans changed and we headed to Lochailort. Conor was there to film and take pics, Steve was trying a new line as was Mark. I decided to salvage something from the day and had a look at an existing scary E6. I top roped it, Steve did his new line then I decided I should think about getting on lead. 

Contemplation-Pic-Type Two Films

As I stood below the line I began to struggle to justify the level of risk, there is a very on/off move for me and a fall would've likely meant broken bones. I went through all my usual motivators but gut instinct told me to walk away, for a few minutes I tried to fight the feeling but the route didn't give me enough psyche to take a proper big risk. Maybe I'm losing my mojo or maybe just getting slightly wiser, maybe.....

On the walk out-Pic-Type Two Films

Solo again!!!

It's been a busy wee while since the premature end of my winter. With the limitations of my ankle becoming more noticeable I've been firing a lot of energy (and my wages) into my biking and I am getting really into it. It's been a bit of a saviour being introduced to this as it's helping take the edge off the loss of some of my climbing ability.  

Looking down Loch Leven

Last week the rock season began for us with a trip to Ardnamurchan with Steve ,Joe and Rich. Plenty routes climbed in stunning but windy conditions.

The lads walking into Ardnamurchan crags

All smiles at end of the day.Pic-Steve Holmes

While climbing at Ardnamurchan I felt a need begin to grow that I hadn't felt in years, soloing was calling out to me once more. I guess I always knew that one day that dog would hunt again and two days later I found myself at the Quadrocks with Tam and looking up at the unprotected line of The Arete E3 I knew it was time to stop running from what I guess is part of me. I loved being back in the situation of no margin for error, the focus distracting me from all the worries about where my life is now going.

Soloing 

Tam on the walk out