Winter Base

The past week has been outstanding in the Highlands, one of those weeks that you just can't seem to cram in all the fun you want to have, life is good. On Saturday we had our first proper winter day out, Aonach Eagach ridge in Glencoe. Dave, Davie, Craig and myself head out and have the ridge to ourselves almost all day.

Dave, Davie and Craig

Myself climbing up a short gully on the ridge-Pic- Davie Scott

Myself and Davie admiring the view- Pic- Dave Anderson

On Monday Dave, Davie and myself headed for the North Ridge of Stob Ban, on the drive up Glen Nevis it was raining and we started the walk in in waterproofs but soon it cleared and we were treated to another fine day on a great route.

Dave and Davie on Stob Ban

Myself on Stob Ban- Pic- Davie Scott

Myself and Dave on North Ridge-Pic-Dave Anderson

Davie,Myself and Dave on Stob Ban Summit

On Wednesday Dave, Davie and Craig had an early start on Ben Nevis to get on Tower Ridge. The conditions on the ridge were bad and it was a bit of a battle, I'm still suffering from frostnip nearly a week later. Even though it became dangerous and worrying at some points it was still enjoyable. Some very impressive climbing from Dave in the conditions.

Irony, I can climb E7 but I need help to pull my sleeve over my glove!!! Pic-Craig McDonald

Myself and Dave on the Eastern Traverse

Tower Gap in the dark-Pic-Craig McDonald

Fake smiles all Round-Pic-Davie Scott

My face here portrays the reality (lets get to f**k) Pic-Craig McDonald

On Saturday it was a full team day out up Sron Na Lairig in Glencoe. My first time up here and I hope not my last, what a great wee day out for Craigs birthday, good laugh then to the Clachaig for pints and scoff!

Dessie, Dave and me on Sron-Pic-Davie Scott

Sron Team-standing L-R-Davie,Dave,Craig,Craig,Anna,John and kneeling is me, Dessie and Suzie-Pic-Davie Scott

On Sunday we headed up the Ben again, the walk up from Torlundy helping to clear the head from the previous nights whisky. We headed up Ledge route this time and again in stunning conditions. The scenery was utterly stunning, no words I can write or pictures I post will do it justice.

Out of the gully and onto the route-Pic-Davie Scott

I was disappointed to discover at the top that I had forgotten my hip flask to share a nip of whisky to celebrate such a good week. As luck would have it a fellow topped out of No4 Gully at that point and overheard me and he produced one and shared it around, what a legend..................

Great way to end a great week, combining my 2 true loves, bevy and climbing-Pic Dave Anderson

Transition coaching & Lecture

Doing more mental coaching on Saturday 1st December at Transition Extreme in Aberdeen this time, also lecturing in the evening. Hopefully catch up with some mates for a beer afterwards! Details here 

http://teclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/kev-shields-masterclass-lecture.html

Stuff

Been a hectic few weeks. I got a quick blast back up to the E7 project with Dan, Will and Connor. I found a slight smear for my left palm on the upper crux which if pushed hard enough kinda sticks to the rock, pity it's been wet since or it would've been in the bag.

Connor, Will and Dan up at the slab

after that I was travelling about a bit then back up last week to start setting for the STS comp at the Ice Factor which was a busy 3 days for us. The comp was on Saturday which was also my birthday, all went well during the day and had a proper good night in the bar afterwards with some good mates, I knew it was a good one when I woke up in the back seat of my car at 10am the next morning!!

Still suffering from my hangover on Monday I headed down to the Ice Factor to start my SPA Training with Al Halewood. We spent most of the day in the wall then up to a surprisingly warm Glen Nevis. Next day we left the Fort William monsoon and headed to a slightly drier Kingussie with Scott. 

Joe posing for a change

Stevi enjoying the wonderful Scottish conditions

Joe, Stevi, Mark and Scott

Kendal Coaching

On Saturday 17th of November I'm working for my sponsors Lyon Outdoor at the Kendal Mountain Festival with Andy Cave. We're coaching at the Lakeland Wall and we will be looking more at the mental aspect of things. I'm looking forward to it, details here http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoor/latest-news-and-events/107-unlocking-your-true-potential

Ardnamurchan

On Friday night I got a text from  fellow Dalry Ex-Pat Steve Kennedy asking if I fancied a trip to Ardnamurchan with him and my old Nevisport boss ,the legendary Andy to see about doing a new route. I was catching up with some mates on the Saturday but resisted the temptation to hit Ossians, Fort Williams premier night club, and went home early and got ready for the following day.

We drove out in increasingly fine weather and sauntered into the crag. There's a real atmosphere out there it's a truly beautiful and remote spot. Steve showed me the line and I was immediately psyched, it was a direct line up an arête and a true finish to an existing line that steps right at the start of the difficulties. There was a bit of a protection issue in that I could only get some at half height but I top roped the route first to check the scary looking crux.

Entering the crux sequence, Pic -Steve Kennedy

As I've noticed on bold routes all this season I found myself totally relaxed on lead, the feeling of total focus, relaxation and peace really is priceless.

 Just about topping out on the route, Pic-Steve Kennedy

We graded the route E4 5c but haven't decided on a name yet. It was a great new line and well worth staying sober for.

Andy and Steve 

It was a great day all in yesterday, new bold route, beautiful weather, stunning location and good banter with mates, pretty perfect really..........

Past week in Pics

About to go canyoning with these two wise looking chaps

I'm the splash after a 40ft jump

Myself, Johann and Martyn

On Ben Rinnis doing ML Training

Summer ML training gear in Scotland, gale force winds

First training sesh on the axes with Connor and Dave

Feeling the early season burn

Torch Bearer on the Ben

Yesterday was a very special day indeed. Last week I received an email telling me I'd been nominated to be part of the Paralympic Torch team on Ben Nevis, at first I thought it was just a joke however at 5.15am I found myself at the foot of Ben Nevis waiting on all the other members of the team , Scouts,guides,Police security, members of the organising committee and the media. We took our time on the walk up which gave me a good chance to hear some great stories from the security guys about the last torch relay, some really inspirational people out there.

Just having lit the flame 

The Scouts did well to light the fire by natural means using a flint and tinder in damp and windy conditions which I then got to light the torch on. 

 Standing on the very summit with the Scouts 

It was a real genuine honour to represent Scottish Mountaineering for the Paralympics, not something I'll ever forget. I dont know who nominated me but if they read this then big thanks to you.........

One final bit of posing on the summit